1964 Ranchero Future Plans
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Parts Already Gathered for Future Projects - And Some Ideas...

For those who haven't done the math yet and those of you who have and are just curious as to what I'm doing with the truck, here's some stuff that I've collected with the intent on putting it on the Ranchero as soon as I have some time and space to do the work.

1977 Ford Granada front brake donor vehicle. This is the classic swap to front discs on a Mustang, and I stripped all of the relevant parts off this beater of a Granada. $220 scored me the parts I needed, and the guy I bought the parts from delivered the car and hauled it away when I'm done - he was claiming the rear axle for one of his projects - nice deal, huh?

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1966 Mustang gauge cluster. The perfect budget upgrade for my single turn signal indicator, idiot-light-only dash. I snagged a matching glove box door too in case I can make that fit. Now I can get basic instrumentation and two (count 'em!) turn signal indicators - one for each side.

1965 Shelby R style Six Gauge Cluster. I also found out that the rare 1965 Shelby R six gauge cluster bezels are being reproduced and sold through Mustangs Unlimited. They have a slightly different style bezel available that mimics the 1966 gauge cluster, but it accepts six aftermarket gauges instead of the factory 5 gauge setup. In addition, you can get that same style bezel already fully loaded with aftermarket gauges, though the gauge set is of unknown origin. The black face gauges and the all black bezel look pretty good, but so does the chrome bezel unit. They are quite a good deal for the price, and I can buy a gauge set pretty reasonably and install it into the basic bezel. There is a slight style difference in the bezels.

Thermostatic clutch and fan assembly. Helps the car warm up faster, cuts HP loss due to the fan spinning at all times, and helps keep the engine quieter on the highway since the fan can freewheel to the same speed as the air coming through the radiator instead of beating it to death and making lots of noise in the process. Very true if you run a steep rear (3.83 and up) without an overdrive trans since the engine will be revving pretty high on the freeway at 80+ mph. I have one for a standard rotation water pump (used on a standard V belt application) and for a reverse rotation water pump (used on a serpentine belt application - see below).

Late model 5.0L V8 engine and 5-spd manual transmission. I found a bare engine and trans from a 1987 Mustang for a good price and grabbed it for later use. It had the upper and lower intakes, the bell housing with the clutch fork ball stud still mounted to it, the shifter (but not the shifter handle), and some other odds and ends with it. When the time comes, I'll freshen up the trans and stick it in the Ranchero. It'll be my first V8 vehicle with a manual transmission - and I just know that the rear tires are going to be toast on a regular basis. :-) I also found and purchased a complete, running 1993 Mustang engine with the complete EFI system. In addition to the bare engine and transmission I originally bought, I have also gathered a number of auxiliary parts to turn the "bare" engine and transmission into a complete setup:

  • T5 flywheel and engine block plate. (Any Mustang V8 T5 pieces will work; 1984-1993)
  • T5 clutch fork and clutch fork dust cover. (Any T5 piece will do, V8, V6, or I4; 1984-1993)
  • Serpentine style alternator, smog pump, AC compressor, power steering pump, all of the associated brackets, crank pulley, and water pump pulley plus all of the bolts/mounting hardware and a used serpentine belt to use for mock-up purposes.
  • Reverse rotation water pump and thermostatic clutch fan.
  • Starter
  • Mustang shifter dust seal, shifter, boot, and shifter handle (Any Mustang T5 piece will do - even 4 cylinder stuff; 1984-1995)

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Late model 5.0L EFI system. See my 1964 Ranchero EFI Swap page for more details. The 1993 Mustang engine I got has it all there already.

Late model 5.0L cruise control system. I grabbed it in one of my many visits to a local wrecking yard. It should be able to be wired right up and made to work with the EFI setup like it was supposed to be there. The engine and computer hookups are the same, and all I need to do it mount the "brain", give it a power source, and hook up a few buttons to handle the basic cruise functions. The 1989-1993 Mustang factory wiring is easy enough to sort out for these kinds of things. I'll post details of the conversion once I do it. I got all of the cruise setup with the 1993 Mustang engine, plus I also bought some spare odds and ends from local junkyard runs.

1964 Ranchero clutch and brake pedal assembly. A local Craigslist seller was parting out a 1964 Ranchero that had a manual transmission in it, and the pedal assembly was mine for $40. Cool!

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Cable clutch and power brake conversion kits. Mustang Steve offers several relevant kits targeted at the first generation Mustangs, and he confirmed to me in email that everything works just fine on the Falcon, with the exception of the hookup to the brake pedal on the power brake kit. That may require welding a bit of metal onto the back edge of the brake pedal to make it work, and if it does, the problem and fix will be obvious when I mount everything in the car - the pushrod to the brake booster will be a bit too long. UltraStang has some good details on this conversion. I'm still sorting out the details from the kit I bought, and I'm not going to give away the info I paid Mustang Steve for because that's just not right/fair. I will post what my final combo is when I get it done, but if you want the details, then buy his "plans and details" offering - it's reasonably priced.

Relocated shifter on the T5 transmission. The stock late-model Mustang shifter would come up through the floor in a location that would require cutting right through some critical floor bracing. Modern DriveLine has a "Front Shift" conversion that will move the shifter forward by about 8 inches. According to this guys swap page, it appears that they use a tailshaft from an S-10 pickup. There's more good info here and here. At this time Modern DriveLine does not supply a kit to convert my existing transmission - I talked to them and they said they needs to perform the swap themselves because it requires disassembling the the transmission and modifying the main shaft at a cost of $400 or so. If they rebuild your trans at the same time, it costs (only!) $300 extra to have this conversion done. That's pretty pricey, so to experiment with this, I found a 1983 and up S-10 T5 "core" locally for only $40. (Why so cheap? Some dolt had run gear oil in the trans instead of the correct ATF - and as a result destroyed the syncros and bearings, so it was toast internally. I only need the tailshaft, side cover, with shift forks, shifter, shifter handle, and knob, so this should work quite well for me to experiment with.) With any luck I'll get the conversion done myself for the cost of the parts I've got so far plus some head scratching and good old creative thinking. If not, I'll clearly understand why Modern DriveLine charges $400 for the work and I can justify the cost - and I can get a rebuild done at the same time too.

  • T5 transmission from S-10 to get rear extension housing, shift folks, and side cover.
  • S-10 shifter dust seal, shifter boot, and shifter handle (Any T5 piece will do; 1983 and up for S-10)

Front suspension conversion from Fatman Fabrications. They offer a front strut suspension + rack and pinion + disc brake + tilt wheel conversion kit. Requires the parts below. (NOTE: Fatman loves to completely re-arrange their website each time they release a new catalog, and my direct link to their page about this conversion kit keeps breaking as a result. If the link goes to a non-existent page, just go to their main page and look for the "strut suspension for pony cars" item in their table of contents.) Even though this is way out in the future, I've started collecting parts in preparation for doing this conversion - here's what I've got so far. For the late-model Mustang parts, 11" non-Cobra brakes should allow the use of traditional looking - and cheaper - 15" wheels. 13" Cobra brakes would require expensive 17" wheels, and I don't want to go that big or expensive. Also, for the 11" non-Cobra brakes, V6 and V8 stuff is basically the same, although some of the later (1999-2002) cars had better dual piston calipers, making those the most desirable.

  • 1985 Mustang front strut assemblies (1979-1993 preferred; 1994-2002 can be used, but allows less drop)
  • 1999-2002 Mustang front spindles, hubs, rotors, pads, dual piston brake calipers, caliper brackets, and brake flex hoses (1994-2002 will work)
  • 1994 Mustang Cobra 13" front brake rotors (I acquired these as part of another set of parts before I realized the 13" Cobra brakes would require 17" wheels.)
  • GM type steering wheel. I have plenty of these laying around in the garage from various GM cars I've parted out. I can upgrade to an aftermarket wheel later if I want to.

Rear suspension conversion from TCI. TCI is now offering a brand new rear suspension conversion that uses coilovers, a torque arm, a Panhard bar, and subframe connectors. It's listed for 1964 1/2 to 1970 Mustangs, which means that it should work on The Falcon and Ranchero models. I have yet to confirm this, but it should work out - the 1964 1/2 Mustang was very similar to the 1964 Falcon/Ranchero underneath. This improves launches at the drag strip, as well as handling - the frame connectors really tighten up the chassis for improved handling. And, the braking performance should be improved through less "brake dive".

Mustang "dual pod" style dash pad. This turned out to be a dud of an idea after I got a used 1965 and 1966 Mustang dash pad to try out - they are simply not the same size as the Falcon dash - that was one of the areas that apparently got redesigned enough for the Mustang so that the Mustang stuff won't work on a Falcon. I'm keeping the notes here in case someone else gets this same idea, and since it's got the idea for my center gauge pod. The idea was that it would be close enough to work, but it's not. I wanted an easy way to get the Mustang look of separate "pods" on each side as well as allow me to run a reproduction "Shelby" style center instrument pod that holds one large gauge (3 1/2") and one small gauge (2 3/8") right above the radio. This is perfect for a tach and a vacuum gauge - it would look pretty trick and put these gauges in my line of sight while keeping a clean look to the dash. The 1965 and 1966 dash pads are slightly different, mainly in the center area near the radio. The 1965 dash pad is pretty simply and doesn't extend down towards the radio at all. The 1966 dash pad has some curved areas that connect with the metal dash just above the radio area. Those curved areas may not allow the center instrument pod to work - I need to get one and see. Had they worked, both dash pads would have needed a flat piece of metal to be mounted to the dash to support the pad under each "pod" projection. If the pads had fit, it would have been simple enough to do, but alas, it didn't work out. Oh well. I'll have to make the center pod out of fiberglass or metal and custom mount it to the existing dash.

Billet hood hinges. I saw these in Popular Hot Rodding, and I think they look pretty cool and anodized black, I think they fit the design and style I'm looking for. They're made by Fesler Built, item #FBH-307 should fit. I also like their website slogan - "Help contribute to our retirement, shop the FESLER store". Priceless. They're pretty darned pricey, though.


Parts Needed for Future Projects

Here's some of the stuff I'm still looking for and/or am planning to buy for use on my Ranchero.

  • T5 clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing (needs to be for Mustang V8)
  • Transmission crossmember to mount the T5 into the Falcon chassis. Modern DriveLine sells them - the right crossmember is ~$149 (part #MD-6165F-CM), and the transmission mount is $19 (part #MD-504-1101).
  • Power steering "delete" setup so I can run the late-model 5.0L engine in the car without power steering for a while.
    • Windsor-Fox supposedly sells an idler pulley for this, but I can't find any specific details on it and they seem to be out of business.
    • I've also heard you can simply run the output of the pump back to itself and let it recirculate the fluid. I'd be concerned about pump damage over the long-haul, though. Maybe this is OK.
    • I could also build a custom idler pulley out of one from a junkyard plus some steel plate and mount that to the original power steering pump mounts.
  • Fatman Fabrications front strut suspension + rack and pinion + disc brake + tilt wheel conversion kit
  • . Requires the parts below. (NOTE: Fatman loves to completely re-arrange their website each time they release a new catalog, and my direct link to the page about this conversion kit keeps breaking as a result. If the link goes to a non-existent page, just go to their main page and look for the "strut suspension for pony cars" item in their table of contents.)
    • 1981-86 Escort or 1984-87 Tempo/Topaz power rack and pinion assembly with mount bushings and complete tie rod assemblies (I have a line on a used one for $40 - I just need to go get it)
  • Rear disc brakes
    • Explorer setup or other setup? Need details on this swap...
    • Need to find out what the details are on my existing 9-inch rear.


Comments? Kudos? Got some parts you'd like to buy/sell/barter/swap? Nasty comments about my web page so far? You can email Mike or Debbie.

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Page last updated 03/10/2010 11:19:04 PM